Board index Flathead Power-Technical Questions, Answers, and Suggestions Morthodites-"Non Factory" K MODEL CYLINDERS ON WL CASES


Built something weird, one-off or want to? Ask or tell us about it here.
Post Mon Dec 06, 2010 9:18 am

Posts: 137
Location: BRANFORD, CT

Hi Guys,

In the last month I have received a bunch of phone calls about the parts I make and how they are used to put K or KH top ends on WL cases.
I thought that for each call I received there are many others out there who were wondering about what is involved.
So , here it is.
I know that there are many ways to do this in addition to what I have listed and think it might be helpful for others to let us know what they have done.
Also, many thanks to those that have previously posted on this subject or had discussions with me, including Dr. Dick, Panic, Patrick, Celtic Dodge and others too numerous to list.



The biggest problem is that the cylinder stud by the exhaust valve is in the wrong location! This is the only machining operation involved other than for replacing cam lobes. Other than this it can be an entirely "bolt on" situation
Use a 3/8-16 threaded aluminum rod or bolt to plug the existing hole, use red locktite and tighten. Cut off and file or machine flush. Drill and re-tap using a K model base gasket for location.

The K cylinders have the valves at an angle tipped toward the cylinder bore. The angles on the intakes and exhaust are different and are also slightly different than what is used on the WR. The WL valves are in a plane that is parallel to the bore.

This was accomplished by grinding the cams at an angle and having the tappet guides at the same angle.

The best solution is the use WR cam angles with WR tappet guides While some builders have run K/KR cams with WR guides, the angle difference places a strain on the rollers and the may fail prematurely.

The positioning of the tappet adjusters to the valve centerlines is negligible on the intakes, while the exhaust are off about .045”. In actual usage this does not appear to cause any problems other than accelerated wear on the top of the adjusters.

The angles are as follows.
Intake exhaust
WL 0º 0º
WR 1.033º 3.533º
K models 1.0º 3.0º

WL cams are for bushings while WR cams have ball bearings, and will not fit in WL cases without machining them. Engineering tests have proven that a well lubricated bushing has less friction than ball bearings. Also the WR had a problem with breaking the turned down shaft on the #4 cam shaft.

The WR cam profiles are for flat tappets and will not work with roller tappets!
Also the WR tappet guides are made for the flat tappets which are wider than the roller tappets, the standard WR guides must be welded and remachined.

I recommend that for street use the hottest cam to use is the KHK profile. It is actually a hotter profile than was available in the flat tappet WR.

WR valve spring covers must also be used as the WR style tappet guides are not threaded. These use a o’ring seal and retaining screw on the guide and a rubber band seal on the slip joint.


Cam profiles with the correct WR angles for roller tappets *

WR angled tappet guides for roller tappets *

WL or K model roller tappets with adjusters (standard re-pop items)
KH cylinders require longer adjusters *

WR valve spring covers, longer covers for use with KH cylinders are also available *

Stronger valve springs for more aggressive KR profile cams *

Light weight valve spring retainers * (these use the stock keepers)

Stainless steel KR valves *, These have 45º angles, can be reground to 30º for racing applications, valve guides need to be honed

*these parts manufactured by Enfield Racing

Good luck and have fun,

Bruce Argetsinger
AHRMA Dirt Track # 67J

Post Mon Dec 06, 2010 8:32 pm

Posts: 987
Location: Markt Einersheim, Germany


I wish that when I began my WL/KH project I had such a list as you just posted, sure would have saved me some time.

But, if I had such a list, I would have not learnt anying....I say that because not having a list, made me research and read.

I went to your web site, and could not find the longer tappet adjusters.

I know that there is a pricing policy here, and I don't want to get Pa to put on the editors cap. He's got enough hats to wear :D

PM or email me OK?


Post Mon Dec 06, 2010 9:00 pm

Posts: 147
Location: USA
For those of you that may be wondering if the alignment of the valve stem and adjuster is a problem it's insignificant and really nothing to worry about.You will see in the attached picture of the front exhaust that alignment is dead on.Now I know the real issuse is the exhaust and the picture provided is the intake but really there is not much difference.Don't let this hold you guys back from putting the K Model top end on your 45's.Bigger ports,better head design,put in the KHK cams and I'll bet you will leave the WR's behind.Remember you can do this without having to pay for outrageously overpriced tall KHK cylinders and use the shorter and far cheaper K Model cylinders.Also you can now get the stroked flywheels that allow the use of the Sportster rods and don't have to deal with finding the hard to get Wr parts.Hope this helps. :D :D ... G_6093.jpg

Post Mon Dec 06, 2010 9:26 pm

Posts: 2758
Location: Los Angeles, CA

Post Tue Dec 07, 2010 6:23 pm

Posts: 137
Location: BRANFORD, CT


Not on the web site yet, need to get them heat treated.
Send me an email to

Bruce Argetsinger
AHRMA Dirt Track # 67J

Post Tue Dec 07, 2010 7:23 pm

Posts: 569
Location: Wa, USA
Are those custom bronze lifter blocks? I have been thinking of doing that for my U. Any info or tips would be appreciated.

Post Tue Dec 07, 2010 8:07 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6169
Location: Ohio USA

woody....Chris put the pic up for celticdodge. Pa

Post Wed Dec 08, 2010 2:08 am

Posts: 579
Location: devon,england
woody those are the ones that moldthread makes i think you will find. go to his website and see them there
Dude, check out that jibhead, he's crazy. Hasn't been sober for 40 years

Post Wed Dec 08, 2010 2:42 pm

Posts: 698
Location: somerset, oh usa
Reinforcing what CD stated, perhaps much to the dismay of those that have planned going on with (and purchased) KH cylinders.
The first time we pulled the trigger on mine (45") on the fresh build (and we were conservative) mine went almost 96 in a standing mile and I know it had more.
Would clarify that if using this setup you would not want "stroker flywheels" but stock stroke, available either from our host and through Panic (T&O), both that utilize XL rods, pin etc.

Post Wed Dec 08, 2010 6:13 pm

Posts: 2758
Location: Los Angeles, CA
37ULH wrote:
available either from our host and through Panic (T&O), both that utilize XL rods, pin etc.

Are you saying that Panic is Truett & Osborn?

Post Wed Dec 08, 2010 7:51 pm

Posts: 698
Location: somerset, oh usa
Post was intended for those who may build something and not know the resources available.
I have not dealt with T&O directly but possibly you can. S&S requires going through a dealer.

Post Wed Dec 08, 2010 9:32 pm

Posts: 987
Location: Markt Einersheim, Germany

Are you saying that Panic is Truett & Osborn?

Nope, he isn't.

Sells T&O parts at the Victory site that's it.

I have my T&O stroker flywheels purchased directly from them, and I am using the ones that use WL rods.

37ULH Can you post any pics of your build? Or care to share any build tips?

Bruce, I will contact you off line.

Celticdodge, Do you have a straight on shot like the above photo showing contact of both intake and exaust valves?


Post Thu Dec 09, 2010 6:21 pm

Posts: 1717
Location: Interlaken, NY USA

Ah, Bruce, you make it way too easy! Nice work.
I just got a set of KHK profile cams from Bruce, Look great, by the way. I cut the old lobes off a set of wl cams.
Anyway, the new lobes are a very light press on the old shafts, can be moved as needed to align, then you spot weld them as in the directions that come with the cams.
I've got the lobes on but haven't timed them in as yet, still bringing in firewood :lol:
By the way, I'm replacing the lobes in Frankie because the case hardening was giving way on the intake lobes. I guess the misalignment after all these years took it's toll. I used WL tappet blocks on the intake, not WR. The intake lobes I got from Bruce are flat so as to work perfectly with the WL blocks.

Post Thu Dec 09, 2010 8:09 pm

Posts: 698
Location: somerset, oh usa
GG It all depends on what you're doing with it. What i did with mine isn't applicable unless we are using all the same stuff for the same application which we are not......and probably not then.
All the parts I used are readily available excepting cam axles (hint, hint) (I used oem KHK cams).
If you are questioning the resources and forethought that Bruce utilized for his quality products, don't!
He's tested his methods thoroughly by himself and with his generous sharing of putting others on 3 vintage enfields on America's dirttracks for years.
As the Dr. said, it's all too easy with Bruce's help, if you know what to do with the parts.

Post Fri Dec 10, 2010 1:31 pm

Posts: 147
Location: USA
Goerge,here is another picture of the front tappet showing the alignment between the tappet adjuster and the valve stem,the alignment is within thousandths and is about as good as you ever expect. :D :D ... CF0443.jpg

Post Sun Dec 12, 2010 12:52 pm

Posts: 104
Dick, could you please explain the procedure of how to align the cam lobes with the gears/timing marks on thegears? I've read about people doing this on XR 750's but have never seen an explanation of the procedure involved. I'm sure there would be other people interested as well. TIA STROKER

Post Sun Dec 12, 2010 3:55 pm

Posts: 137
Location: BRANFORD, CT

Here is a link to the instructions for adjusting cam timing using weld on, or press on cam lobes on my website.
This method, I think was originated by Jerry Branch on the KR's. You could not move a set of timed cams from one engine to another and expect the timing to be correct. This process is still used today on the XR750's.
It is due to the variation on the positioning of the lifters to the cams. A .005" variation amounts to a 5º change in cam timing.
Not of much of a problem on a street bike, but on a racer it's winning or losing.
Also not much of a problem on a side valve, but on a racing over head valve with tight valve to piston clearance it can get very expensive.

Bruce Argetsinger
AHRMA Dirt Track # 67J

Post Thu Apr 07, 2011 2:09 am

Posts: 1768
Shoot, a man could have a good weekend in Dallas with all that stuff...

Post Sun May 01, 2011 8:42 pm

Posts: 987
Location: Markt Einersheim, Germany


Not on the web site yet, need to get them heat treated.
Send me an email to


Bruce, you got mail.


Post Mon May 30, 2011 4:45 am

Posts: 987
Location: Markt Einersheim, Germany

Plug for Bruce...

I got a set of his extended tappet screws.....

Excellent quality and they fit perfect.

Thanks Bruce.



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