Board index Flathead Power-Technical Questions, Answers, and Suggestions Knuckles Engine Case Repairs

Engine Case Repairs

Post Sun Apr 22, 2018 1:13 pm

Posts: 32
Location: Northern Michigan USA
I have a set of Knucklehead cases that have had some type of repair done to the cases at the sprocket and pinion races. Has anyone seen this type of repair before?
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Post Sun Apr 22, 2018 2:46 pm

Posts: 2750
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Repair? All I see is the pre 1940 Blind Bushing., Most engine builders will convert it to the 1940 type when rebuilding.

Post Mon Apr 23, 2018 3:50 pm

Posts: 32
Location: Northern Michigan USA
I stand with hat in hand. I guess I should have read the first 2 paragraphs of my Palmer book. Thanks Chris for clearing that up for me. I believe I will need to find a different motor builder. I took these to a shop and they told me they had been repaired. Obviously they don't have the required knowledge.
So how are the cases modified to accept the later races?

Post Mon Apr 23, 2018 5:19 pm

Posts: 3417
Location: Central Illinois, USA
If I can butt in, Zeek,..

The retaining lip of the main race housings are cut away, so later races that use things like a snapring and different thrust washers can be installed. Then "modern" honing machines can be adapted to precision line-fit the races, just like more modern models.

You will probably want to update the pinion shaft assembly as well.
I prefer the '55-'57...

....Cotten
PS: Bet I never do another one.

Post Mon Apr 23, 2018 5:25 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6143
Location: Ohio USA

Come on Cotten..... If the opportunity to do it again comes up again. You won't be able to resist doing it again. ;)

Post Mon Apr 23, 2018 5:26 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6143
Location: Ohio USA

That slotted bushing looks newer to me

Post Mon Apr 23, 2018 6:44 pm

Posts: 32
Location: Northern Michigan USA
Cotten wrote:
If I can butt in, Zeek,..

The retaining lip of the main race housings are cut away, so later races that use things like a snapring and different thrust washers can be installed. Then "modern" honing machines can be adapted to precision line-fit the races, just like more modern models.

You will probably want to update the pinion shaft assembly as well.
I prefer the '55-'57...

....Cotten
PS: Bet I never do another one.


Thanks for your clear explanation. If I may, can I ask for an expanded explanation on one point.

"so later races that use things like a snap-ring and different thrust washers can be installed"

Will a grove need to be cut for the new snap-ring? Believe me I'm not even entertaining the idea of doing this myself just wanting to understand the procedure so if I choose to have the cases modified I'll know what I'm getting into.

Zeek

Post Mon Apr 23, 2018 6:51 pm

Posts: 3417
Location: Central Illinois, USA
Sorry Pa,.. And All,..

Its "Exit Strategy" from here on out.

My specialized tooling will probably end up scrap.
(Even that wonderful indicator you gave me...)

....Cotten
PS: As I announced some time ago on the AMCA forum, etc., that I can only honor float and manifold requests in a timely manner;
Carb requests must come from the most patient enthusiasts on the planet.
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Post Mon Apr 23, 2018 10:20 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6143
Location: Ohio USA

Damn Cotten....you stopping will be a great loss to the vintage motorcycle community. I am about to fold as well though. I am getting old and health isn't great either. Your dog could care less about that dial indicator. ;) You keep in touch off forum with me ok Tom.

Post Wed Nov 07, 2018 1:18 pm

Posts: 21
Location: Valentine, NE 69201
cotton please elaborate on why you prefer the 55-57 pinion shaft and what if any modifications are required. Thanks
It's a hard life if you don"t weaken.

Post Wed Nov 07, 2018 4:16 pm

Posts: 3417
Location: Central Illinois, USA
ncmc47!

The original 'split-pinion' sukd.

My memory fades back to a customer who insisted,.. so truing the original soon revealed it registered opposite upon the dial indicator, and every tweak had to be counter-intuitive. A stubby shaft doesn't move easily.

I 'spose there are better seals now available?

Forgive me, but I haven't touched a Knuck motor in decades, so conversion details would take a review.
But if I could do it, most 'pro's' could.

(I hope to retire to kick over my '37 with the 'update', again some day soon.... Honest.)

....Cotten
PS: I just remembered I have two, but one motor is a showroom gewgaw.
PPS: I just looked and I still have the two right-side ends of the shafts, one with a gear. Find NOS inboard bearing shafts and they are priceless huh.

Hope so.

Post Wed Nov 07, 2018 10:45 pm

Posts: 2750
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Joe Helferty can do the upgrade for you. He has been doing this for decades. Call him at 661 466 6479. UPS and FedEx come to his door daily. Tell him Chris sez hey.

Post Thu Nov 08, 2018 10:47 am

Posts: 21
Location: Valentine, NE 69201
Sorry Cotton and Chris, I was asking about 47 cases, I should have elaborated. I know about the split pinion in early cases. Is there any advantage in later knuckle cases or is the splined pinion fine?
Thanks
It's a hard life if you don"t weaken.

Post Thu Nov 08, 2018 2:05 pm

Posts: 3417
Location: Central Illinois, USA
ncmc47!

I doubt you will find any advantage to attempting to put the earlier assembly into later cases.
Seems like a nightmarish and futile exercise to me.

Maybe it makes sense if you repeatedly wore out cranks much faster than camchests.

I found a third shaft with a gear if you want one!

....Cotten

Post Thu Nov 08, 2018 7:44 pm

Posts: 2750
Location: Los Angeles, CA
ncmc47 wrote:
Sorry Cotton and Chris, I was asking about 47 cases, I should have elaborated. I know about the split pinion in early cases. Is there any advantage in later knuckle cases or is the splined pinion fine?
Thanks



I was responding to ZEEK about upgrading the bearing race.


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