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Dusty's Bonneville Scout Build

Post Sun Oct 14, 2018 6:32 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6152
Location: Ohio USA

What is your plan for the now machined away missing material Dusty ?

Post Sun Oct 14, 2018 9:01 pm

Posts: 1281
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
If the cylinders will still slide in nothing. If not lots of machining. Started this 35 today the sealing surface cleaned up in .004" but some fool tried to unscrew the main bearing retaining nut without grinding or scraping the large factory stakes and broke the threaded part of the housing off. So I cut all the threads off smooth with the step for ther top of the main bearing then turned the od of the remaining main bearing boss .125 smaller. Next time I get some time i'll make a steel sleeve that incorporates the threads and shrink it onto the boss.

the 36 what the main bearing boss should look like.
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The 35.
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Dusty

Post Tue Oct 16, 2018 9:24 pm

Posts: 1281
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
Made the sleeve.
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Heated the sleeve to 973 degrees f and it slid right on. At -.009" I suspect it's there to to stay and should strengthen things up a bit.
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Dusty

Post Wed Oct 17, 2018 8:23 am
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6152
Location: Ohio USA

Looks like it will work to me.

Post Wed Oct 31, 2018 2:38 pm

Posts: 1281
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
Started the main race retaining nut.
Squaring up the end of an inch and a half of 2" 16 LH threads

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A little hole
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Big enough for my boring bar
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Dusty

Post Wed Oct 31, 2018 7:37 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6152
Location: Ohio USA

Rough it out, then pre-finish, then finish. Right Dusty. Will you be using a tap for the thread or chase it ?

Post Wed Oct 31, 2018 9:26 pm

Posts: 1281
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
The digital camera doesn't like to show threads. But they are there I single pointed them. I didn't even check if 2" 16 lh tap and die was available but if they were I'm sure they would kill all the savings of making my own. These nuts are $65 or so at most of the Indian suppliers I checked. I left a shoulder for the nut to bottom against in the sleeve I will use as a fixture when I bore these and then put the really corse lh threads that are the seal. Then I'll turn the sleeve the rest of the way to the -.009 and shrink it on.
Dusty

Post Sun Nov 04, 2018 9:22 pm

Posts: 1281
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
Using my thrifty cutoff tool.
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Parted off
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In fixture
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Boring to size
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Cutting Left Hand threads that maybe pump the oil back into the engine.
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Also got one of the sleeves turned to size to shrink on the 35 case.
Dusty

Post Mon Nov 05, 2018 7:54 am
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6152
Location: Ohio USA

Show more of that thrifty cutoff tool Dusty. Please !

Post Mon Nov 05, 2018 1:05 pm

Posts: 1281
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
Pa,
Surely ya know what a hacksaw looks like but I'll try to remember next time I'm down there.
Here's the sleeve shrunk in place and the nut torqued.
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Dusty

Post Mon Nov 05, 2018 5:57 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6152
Location: Ohio USA

Your progress is awesome Dusty. I knew it was a hacksaw blade but wondered how you held it and lowered it into the work piece.

Post Mon Nov 05, 2018 9:52 pm

Posts: 1281
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
Had to take my hand off the front to hold the camera. Normally dig into with a 60 degree tool until the cut is wider than the hacksaw blade. Then with the lathe at a medium speed I apply light pressure and keep the blade moving so I don't melt the teeth until the kerf is deeper than the teeth. Then I saw normally while it rotates. The little Atlas really isn't rigid enough for a parting tool, it can be done but it requires careful sharpening and setup and attention, To get a really wide cut. The hacksaw requires way less attention and the waste is minimal.
Dusty

Post Tue Nov 06, 2018 7:17 am
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6152
Location: Ohio USA

I picture a holder for the saw, mounted to the compound, in order to work like a band saw action. The groove start sounds ideal.

Post Tue Nov 06, 2018 7:36 am

Posts: 88
Does it ever snag?

Post Tue Nov 06, 2018 12:07 pm

Posts: 1281
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
LarryP wrote:
Does it ever snag?

Haven't screwed up bad enough to draw blood. As long as you saw from the tailstock side I've never seen anybody get hurt. People who can't operate a hacksaw lefthanded get in the chuck jaws way.
Dusty

Post Tue Nov 06, 2018 12:10 pm

Posts: 1281
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
Pa wrote:
I picture a holder for the saw, mounted to the compound, in order to work like a band saw action. The groove start sounds ideal.

A fixture to hold the saw straight would probably be great as long as it allowed easy movement. If ya dont keep the blade moving the teeth melt. But I've done it this way since I was 14 and probably won't change now.
Dusty

Post Sun Jan 20, 2019 11:16 pm

Posts: 1281
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
The other case half I'm going to use with the 35 left side is probably 39 or later if the pushrod guides are original to it. It had a tiny crack .
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Then I discovered that the pinion race bore is well machined just to an odd size that isn't available now if it ever was. So I started making a pinion race with a .0075 oversize OD.
This drill bit in rockwell 45 shaft is all the little Atlas Craftsman wanted even in back gear.
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Dusty

Post Mon Jan 21, 2019 10:15 pm

Posts: 1281
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
Forgot to get a shot of boring to size and parting. Boiled the case for 3 or 4 minutes and the race drove in at a medium hammer fit.
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Dusty

Post Mon Jan 21, 2019 10:45 pm

Posts: 1281
Location: Ojo Caliente,NM,USA
A little better picture.
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Dusty

Post Tue Jan 22, 2019 7:25 am

Posts: 88
I like the open ended terminology. "medium hammer fit".

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