Board index Flathead Power-Technical Questions, Answers, and Suggestions 45 Flatties Pa's 42WLA Build

Pa's 42WLA Build

Post Sun Jan 22, 2017 3:59 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6034
Location: Ohio USA

LOL......I would rather pic up dog poop than to wire another bike as well Bro. LOL

Post Sun Jan 22, 2017 9:04 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6034
Location: Ohio USA

URL=http://s129.photobucket.com/user/paps14/media/7e44bb93-edcd-4974-b250-737c51e347e1_zps77obtoy9.jpg.html]Image[/URL]
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Post Mon Jan 23, 2017 9:42 am
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6034
Location: Ohio USA

Here are 28 more pics.

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Post Mon Jan 23, 2017 12:43 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6034
Location: Ohio USA

If you folks noticed, in some of the pics I have modern sparkplugs installed in the heads. I was going to run modern ones but decided not to because they are so tall it is very difficult to install the plug wires on to them. Also, I have an aftermarket outer primary cover on it at that time of the build. I had it on hand so I mounted it to keep the crap and dust from settling all over the nos clutch assembly and nos primary chain. I replaced it with the oem outer primary cover I had to repair. There is a huge difference between the aftermarket outer primary cover and the oem one. The aftermarket one will do fine on civilian 45’s but not on military models. It is impossible to drop the bottom off of the rectangular oil bath aircleaner to clean the inner screen filter or change out the oil because the bottom of the aircleaner hits the aftermarket outer primary cover before it can clear for removal. I believe I posted aftermarket verses oem outer primary cover comparison pics earlier on in this build topic. Anyhow, here are the rest of the pics from the file I've been posting pics from.

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Post Mon Jan 23, 2017 3:04 pm

Posts: 103
Location: Long Island New York

WOW, I feel I should send you some money for the absolutely awesome pix PA. All the details I was wondering about !!!! Thank you so, so much my friend.

Leo

Post Mon Jan 23, 2017 3:51 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6034
Location: Ohio USA

fenderguitarleo wrote:
WOW, I feel I should send you some money for the absolutely awesome pix PA. All the details I was wondering about !!!! Thank you so, so much my friend.

Leo


Glad they are able to help you out Leo my friend.

Post Sun Jan 29, 2017 8:55 am

Posts: 18
I hear you Paul with that fiddling one has trying to pop the plugleadcaps on using modern (tall) plugs.
Both my 45's run Champion D14's.
However; how often does one need to remove the plugs?
Besides that; the OEM plugs (either non-genuine or H-D) are sold at very steep prices nowadays..personally I'll take those fiddling minutes for granted.

P.S: great built! Love it..
....Pascal

Post Wed Apr 05, 2017 1:12 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6034
Location: Ohio USA

I relocated the horn spring washer to the outside per the factory photo which Chris Haynes had posted. I installed it so the actual load of the spring tension would be on the spring washer ears slotted holes. I could see no use for one if load tension of the spring was external with the bulge of the spring facing out doing absolutely nothing. Anyhow….the first pic below is how I initially had the horn spring washer installed. I think it would work as intended that way but it is obvious with Chris’s pic and several other pics I looked at, along with military SNL G-523 parts book illustration of a complete 4800-42M horn assembly, it is where it was intended to be now in the second pic below.

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Post Mon Jul 03, 2017 3:39 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6034
Location: Ohio USA

On page 3 of this topic, I listed all of the radio suppression components. I also listed their part numbers with the exception of the coil straps part number which I did not know and could not find at the time. I now have its oem part number. The part number is 1730-41M.

Post Wed Jul 19, 2017 1:31 am

Posts: 219
Location: Palo Alto, CA
A fantastic build, Pa.

May I ask what your source for the air filter large diameter rubber hose was? I am looking for something similar to cover my KHRM/KRTT shocks.

Post Wed Jul 19, 2017 12:41 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6034
Location: Ohio USA

suicideshovel65 wrote:
A fantastic build, Pa.

May I ask what your source for the air filter large diameter rubber hose was? I am looking for something similar to cover my KHRM/KRTT shocks.


Thank you. It was a blast building it. I have an NOS hose but it had shrunk in length over the years, and would not reach to both the carb elbow and the air filter, so I had to use a replacement one. I got my replacement one off of Dave Gamlin at Wayback Wheels in New Hampshire. Dave threw away piles of nos hoses for the same reason of shrinkage. They do not sell if they do not work. Go here http://waybackwheels.com/ for his contact information. I had to recolor the replacement hose to hide the text on the one side of it.

Post Wed Jul 19, 2017 10:21 pm

Posts: 219
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Thanks Pa!

Not sure if the diameter would suit my shocks or not, however the material looks similar to the original from what I can tell...

Post Thu Jul 20, 2017 2:52 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6034
Location: Ohio USA

Ask Dave the I.D. size. He is always willing to help. If the size will not fit your shocks, try taking the dimension to Napa Auto Parts. They may have access to the size you need.

Post Sun Aug 27, 2017 1:46 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6034
Location: Ohio USA

I finally got around to testing out my new float installation. The bike started on first kick when I had the nos cork float in it, at least, until it swelled and flooded out. I did not disturb my carb settings when I changed out the floats. I have a real hot spark and the bike tries to fire but will not run. I choked the carb and flooded it out with the choke. The proof of flooding out was the gas which poured out of the carb body. This really puzzling me. I know my float setting is correct. I know my float offset is correct. It just seems like she is starving for fuel when the choke is wide open and flooding out when the choke is closed. Any guesses to what is the issue ? Thanks, Pa

Post Mon Aug 28, 2017 12:39 pm

Posts: 3296
Location: Central Illinois, USA
Haven't we been through this before, Pa?

Did you flip the whole carb upside down to suck upon the valve to be certain it was closing?

Is the bowl drain plug directly below the centerline of the body (where it would drain the whole bowl), or do you have the bowl indexed nearly 90º to the body.. where the float will usually stick?
BWLINDEX.jpg


I remember the shift rod interference for some reason only messes with WLA folks...

....Cotten
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Post Mon Aug 28, 2017 3:20 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6034
Location: Ohio USA

I get plenty of fuel if I choke it Cotten. Enough fuel to flood it out. It does not flood if I do not choke it. I am wondering if maybe the idle passage got blocked or restricted somehow.

Post Mon Aug 28, 2017 3:32 pm

Posts: 3296
Location: Central Illinois, USA
Pa!

Is it flooding out the overflow hole on the idle side of the body on the bowl flange, or out the mouth of the carb?

Surely you have the aircleaner attached?

....Cotten

Post Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:52 pm
Pa Site Admin

Posts: 6034
Location: Ohio USA

When I choke it, it floods out of the mouth of the carb Cotten. No fuel comes out of the overflow hole.

Post Tue Aug 29, 2017 3:42 pm

Posts: 3296
Location: Central Illinois, USA
Whew, shouldn't be the float, then, Pa!

So you have no air intake attached so you can see this?
How many kicks choked do you think it might need to start? More than two?

Sorry if I do not reply quickly, but I am packing out for the international Davenport Meet...

....Cotten

Post Tue Aug 29, 2017 4:11 pm

Posts: 374
could it be that with the swollen original cork float a piece of it got stuck in the low speed needle hole? if I am not mistaken this lever is moved ( dont know up or down) when choked, so it might clear the passage then, but not clear the fuelpassage when in "normal operating mode"

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